FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What causes fret buzz?

This has to be the number-one question we get. Fret buzz is caused by a string hitting one of the frets in front of it when it is plucked. There are various reasons this happens. If the neck is too flat or, back bowed as it is called, there will be fret buzz on the first to third frets. To resolve this, bring the guitar in and we'll loosen the truss rod for you.

If the action is set too low, the string will abnormally buzz near the twelfth to fifteenth fret. Simply raising the action will resolve this.

If there is fret buzz on one string and only one or two frets caused by *extreme humidity fluctuations, a fret or two may have to be "tapped" by a tech. if there are multiple spots on the fretboard that buzz, the guitar neck can be corrected by having a tech do a plane and recrown. This procedure can make it better than new as it removes all imperfections from the fretboard caused by settling or exposure to *extreme humidity fluctuations. *gradual humidity fluctuations under 10% either way should not cause this effect, but different woods releases and gain moisture at different rates. Try to keep your guitar in a stable humidity environment when possible.

My action is high on my electric, and it still buzzes?

Ahhh, the dreaded sound of "wolf tones", or also called magnetic flux. On some electric guitars the magnetic pull of the pickups can cause interference with the string's movement. Imagine for a moment that everytime the string passes over the pickup's pole piece, it is pulled down a tenth of a milimeter for a fraction of a second. This movement causes odd overtones and can make the note waver and the string to sound buzzy. Other than having a tech lower your pickups or install low magnetic pickups such as EMG or Fender noiseless, you might try having he or she set up your guitar with a heavier gauge of string. The heavier string will resist the pull because of it's greater momentum.

How do you check the neck curvature on a guitar?

There are a couple of ways to check for neck curve. The foolproof method is to lay a straight edge on the fretboard and check the neck relief, if any, at the seventh fret. Haven't got a straight edge? Well, consider that all six of your guitar strings are under tension and are perfect straight edges. Using your left hand's first finger, hold down the string at the first fret. With your right hand, use your pinky to hold it down at the fourteenth fret and with your right thumb, tap the string at the seventh fret to see how much relief you have. How much relief needed is based upon three factors; what gauge of string you use, what tuning you use, and how agressive you play. If the string is lying flat on the seventh fret, than your neck is too flat and/or back bowed and will cause buzzing on the first three frets respectively. A less accurate way to check for neck curve is to do the old "eyeballing" down the neck. My experience has been that a neck checked with a straight edge or string and HAS relief, has been handed to someone using this method only to have that person claim that the neck is too flat. "Eyeballing is a very innacurate method and is best used for finding deviant frets, or neck "rollercoastering"

How do I tell what gauge of string to use?

If you bend the strings a lot, you may have to use a lighter set so you aren't too uncomfortable. Keep in mind that the lighter the string gauge vs. how aggresive you play can result in string "wow" and buzzing. The heavier gauges do not way as
much and therefore can achieve a lower action; ask any jazz player about that. If bending is a problem and heavy strings are needed, you may try selecting a guitar with jumbo frets so the string can be pushed by your fingers as opposed to dragging it sideways across the fretboard.

Why is there a hump at the 12th-14th fret of my acoustic guitar?

Believe it or not, it's an optical illusion. Most guitar manufacturers build a tolerance into most acoustics these days to allow for a bit of top movement that may develop over years of dryness or over moisture. It is quite common to see an old Framus or Harmony that is not playable form the 9th to 14th fret because the instrument top warped a bit and pushed up the 17th fret by a half a centimeter. Years ago when I asked guitar luthier Robert Godin about this on his guitars he said "...this makes sense as the majority of playing on an acoustic guitar is below the 12th fret anyway."

My friend said it's impossible to keep a Stratocaster
style bridge equipped guitar in tune. Is he right? NO!

Now,that's a great question. The answer is yes. The first modification that must be done on a three spring trem is to put the three springs at three different tensions. This staggering is done by having a tech reposition the springs on the claw. The first benefit of having the springs staggered is eliminating the spring's shared resonant frequency when you play that note on your guitar. You can usually hear this note on a new strat style guitar in the store. The second benefit you will experience is a smoother trem response. Since the spring's elasticity is exponentially different as you stretch it, you have three different spring positions eliminating a sudden change in tension.

The second thing to do is find the whammy's "sweet spot" where the string tension vs. spring tension pulls on the pivot point the same. A good way to eyeball this point is looking at the bridge from the side and it's intonators are almost parallel to the guitar's body.

Unless your guitar is falling apart, the two reasons for strings slipping out of tune are the tensile elasticity of the strings themselves (see - How to stretch your strings), and the big culprit, friction.

Friction is needed on part of the guitar, and needs to be eliminated on other parts. The only place that needs solid friction, and imobilized is where the string touches the machine head post. If your guitar is strung in the manner shown on this site, the string can NOT slip and therefore the string won't drop in pitch similar to a locking machine head. Eliminating friction is critical at the string trees (if any), the nut slots, and the moving bridge parts.

How long should strings last on my guitar?

There are a lot of wild theories and superstitions about this subject that I will avoid. Here's the straight dope about string deterioration. The number one cause of strings going dull is contamination by dirt and finger oils. Strings lose their sustain and intonation because the windings separate from the core wire. This is why people seem confused when told that their strings need to be replaced after a year even though they never played them. To keep your guitar sounding great, change your strings about every three months. All this is based on conventional string technology.

You CAN get longer string life now using coated strings such as Elixir or D'Addario EXP as an example. Elixir strings are coated with a fine layer of Gortex and keep contaminants from the metal. Since the string is locked in by this web, the wraps are more likely to keep adhered to the core as well. The only drawback some of our customers find is that they can notice the slight tone and feel difference. Coated strings will NOT last any longer if they are abused and will break like any other conventional string.

What's that "ching" sound I hear at the nut when I'm tuning my guitar?

If you hear this sound, it means the string is binding at the nut.Take a pencil and rub some of the lead in the nut slots. The pencil lead is made from graphite and makes an excellent lubricant. If the problem does not go away, try a new set of strings as rusted strings will catch on the nut. Failing these remedies, take the guitar to the tech and have him re-cut and widen the nut slots.

What's that horrible squeal I hear when I turn up my amplifier.

A growing overtone that gets gradually louder when an electric guitar note is played like the Beatles "I feel fine" is an example of body resonance feedback and can be a desirable effect. A sharp squeal is a symptom of microphonic feedback and is as undesirable as it is in hand-held microphones. What causes this squeal are the wires vibrating at approximately 1600 times per second in an unpotted electric guitar pickup. The way to eliminate the squeal is to play at a lower volume, pot your exhisting pickup (very expensive compared to the price of your pickup), use a parametric equalizer in your amp's effects loop or, buy a potted pickup like a DiMarzio or Seymour Duncan for example.

While jamming in my basement, I leaned against the support pole
and got a shock, is my amp or guitar faulty?

NO! this is a very important point about how an electric guitar works electrically. Never use an electric guitar in bare feet, on concrete, or outside on pavement while connected to an amplifier. When you touch the guitar, YOU are the ground and part
of the circuit, assuming you're not using a wireless. As with all electric circuits, electricity tries to find the quickest path to the ground. If you are helping it by grabbing a kitchen sink or touching a support pole, then electricity will gladly take the shorter path through your body. Be careful about this, many a pro roadie has died by frying themselves this way. Always wear shoes when playing your guitar and make sure that there are no direct sources to ground the circuit.

My guitar controls are crackling, do they need replacing?

Not always, If the controls are crackling, you should see a tech to have them sprayed out. If this fixes the problem, it was just dust; if it didn't, the graphite was worn and the pot needs replacing. Potentiometers only have a limited lifespan determined by how many times they are used and exposure to any contaminants like dust and smoke.

Why should I humidify my guitar? When should I do it?

Wood is a volatile, unpredictable material used in guitar making. Unfortunately, as expressive as it is, it is vulnerable to winter's recirculated dry air. Guitars must be kept between forty-five and fifty-five percent humidity. If the guitar dries out, the braces can pull away from the top diminishing the guitar's ability to withstand the string's pull. This will eventually fold the guitar in on itself by bulging the top and tilting the bridge forward until it eventually lifts off. Solid top guitars have the ability to "age" and mature. This gives them a quality that plywood guitars don't. The resin lines running perpendicular to the bridge is the secret to this as they become more flexible over time. This thin top is also in danger of cracking along these resin lines if it dries out.

Some signs that your guitar is in trouble are as follows: if the top feels like corduroy, if the fret ends are sticking out from the neck, if the sound hole is changing shape or if the finish is sinking along the binding or any joints. The first line of defence is using a Trophy or Kyser style humidifier in the sound hole. Secondly, bring the guitar in the bathroom with you while the family has their showers (IMPORTANT: DO NOT TAKE THE INSTRUMENT INTO THE SHOWER). Mist will help replenish the guitar.

For more detailed information please visit the Taylor wesite at:
http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/features/woods/Humidity.aspx